Thursday, January 29, 2009
Purchased of the used board rack in the mid-1980s. It came with all those stickers on it and I left them there, cuz I thought they were rad. I used to just look at it and dream about the waves I'd get. When I turned 16, my friend and I would drive to Brookings and Crescent City all the time to try and make those dreams a reality.
Things really haven't changed that much.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
The weekend before last was a wave-fest. Four days of surf in the 8-10 foot range at around 15 seconds with east winds. Friday was the biggest day, with crazy amounts of water flooding the cobblestones, making entry and exit (in the dark) the scariest part of the session. Rips were strong and hold-downs were long on Saturday, and the ocean reminded us who was boss on several occasions.
After hitting (almost) every spot on our quest for perfection, we finally cracked the code on Sunday and Monday, discovering that the place that most accommodated the pumping swell was the most obvious one - right where we started our search. Endless lefts and rights that held up when they looked like they might shut down, with plumes of mist blowing from the peaks. We surfed for nearly four hours a pop.
Throw in bluebird skies, a beach house with a hot-tub and wood stove, a stack of stoking surf movies, endless vittles and cold beer, and great friends old and new, and you have a recipe for and epic MLK holiday.
If this is winter, who needs spring?
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Somebody just let me know that I'm on the Mandala website, riding my 2+1. I went over and sure enough, there I was, amongst such surf luminaries as Alex Knost, Joe Curren, Tyler Warren, Dan Malloy, and the Man(i) himself. The anonymous commenter who informed me that my 15-minutes was ticking also pointed out that I need to toe-in my back foot. I'm definitely rocking the duck-foot stance there... Which reminds me that I should send Manny a picture riding the RPQ where I have ever-so-slightly better style.
I'm not worthy. Seriously. But it's pretty cool.
Monday, January 12, 2009
For anybody who has ever been landlocked too long and watched a wake on a lake or a river, wondering if there's some chance of it being surfable, this is for you. I guess you actually can surf (using that word pretty loosely) on the Willamette River....