Monday, October 25, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
I don't know how I pulled it off. But there I was, sitting in crystal clear water, feeling the swells pass underneath me. Me and a few friends sitting on the glass-like ocean. The surf wasn't huge, but it was perfect for the state I was in. My first wave was the best. Shoulder-high, leftward reeling, fast, long, forgiving. I could just go from top to bottom to top to bottom until it let me out.
When I kicked out and paddled back to where the guys were sitting I looked down through the clear water at the ocean floor eight feet below, dunked my face in and wished I could drink it all.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
A year ago, some very nice people from the Japanese surf magazine Blue visited my home and studio. They asked me lots of nice questions and took some pictures of my artwork and my surfboards. I can't really remember what I said and I can't read the article, but the result looks pretty cool. The article also features Northern Oregon artist/surfers Giles Neale, Yasmina Dedijer-Small, and Alberto Cuadros (who is sadly back in Frisco).
If you blow up the second page, you can see Family 1.0, hanging on the front porch at a time when I could actually claim to be a surfer. Watch out Oregon surf. I'll be back.