I got a chance to meet Gerry Lopez a few weeks ago and it was really cool. I enjoyed the talk he gave at the Patagonia store, especially the end of it, when a little girl in the audience asked him if he's ever drowned before. His response was classic:"Just hold your breath. You'll always end up floating in the end..."
I also got my goofyfoot hero to give a shout out to Sissyfish. Not a bad endorsement. I just finished his book, Surf Is Where You Find It. It rules too.
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Although I have no connection to Lopez, to me he's one of the five seminal figures in surfing. I still can't get over his enigmatic move to Oregon. When I found out about this almost ten years ago, I called to order a board. His wife answered the phone and cautioned me it would take 11 months. I balked and called Bob Pearson instead. Just think, if I had had the patience, I'd have a pre-machine Lopez shape on my rack now!
David
How long are you gonna rest on your Gerry laurels?
I need sme surf related content...get going
Sorry there, gang...
Been traveling my ass off lately. Finally got a good surf in down here in Mexico. News at 11...
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