THE ECSTASY (TOP 4 PHOTOS):
6.5 feet at 15 seconds
Sunday morning sunshine
Light winds out of the southeast
Multiple spots lighting up along the coast
Good intel telling us that a certain sandbar was finally working again
THE AGONY (BOTTOM 2 PHOTOS):
The sandbar not looking too hot
Choppy drop-ins causing blown waves
Swell growing and getting less predictable
A switch to a longer, heavier board mid-session
Several heavy wipeouts and unsettling hold-downs
A collision with my board underwater leaving a sore calf
Getting caught inside again and again and again and again
The riptide widening to about fifty yards and pulling me out to sea, alone
A 20-minute paddle to reach my lineup spot, where I caught a final bomb... and ate it
Over the course of the morning, the swell jumped, the interval grew, and the tide
.
.
.
.
dropped.
MORAL OF THE STORY:
Don't leave waves for waves.
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7 comments:
Word is the original plan would have paid off.
Another brilliant one Captain Caveman!
http://yourdailydonkey.blogspot.com/2009/04/captain-caveman.html
"I'm just a caveman. I don't understand your shredding, bro-brah ways..."
File under you-know-you've-made-it-when.
Dodes, Saturday and Sunday it was so obviously easy, even a caveman scored tubes. Welcome to to the team.
barview huh?
How about a review of the Present? Come-on everyones doing it.
The caveman can't seem to find his tarydactl-bone pen to write his review. Nor does his simian mind have that much recall ability.
He will try to come up with something though that is more than just a grunt of approval.
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