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Everybody's Doing It
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- Chum
- I'm a dad, husband, creative director, writer, illustrator, painter, and surfer who is constantly humbled by how little I know.
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Surf Chums
SISSYFISH MASSIVE
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15 comments:
That's me in the video and I shred.
How much do you charge for lessons?
Really great surfing. I wish I could surf like that.
I have never ridden a hull.
But why would you ride a hull like any other board? I thought hulls were more for trimming and feeling a "oneness" with the wave?
Is it a true hull? how do you tell?
Good point. I just assumed it was a stubbie hull because it said so in the video caption. I do know it's a single fin, and it does look like it planes by displacing water. It slides around a lot too.
Maybe we should ask Deepism for the deets?
He is shreddin', no doubt, but almost anyone can shred on a Lowers wave. Well maybe not me, but almost anyone.
--pushingtide
OK, truth be told, it's not me. BUT, if it is a hull it's more of a tri plane joint b/c as far as I've experienced you can't do that on a full on liddle-esque hull. On a triplane with down rails in the back, yes, but again it depends on skills...
I've got interweb blog comment BS skills and I surf, but can't surf like that.
FWIW, I do have a triplane hull for sale in Brooklyn, but back to the topic at hand... It's got to be more of a triplane bottom going on there.
Great video. I love when he drops in and has that subtle slip and lock into the wave on his back foot. Thanks for the website, Sissy, it works wonders when the Atlantic is flat. I love your transparency and candor.
been enoying that video but its most def. not a hull in the sense that most of us would first think...after a bit of reading into it his board is very shortboard influenced; heavy concaves out the back and the fin is pushed way back on the tail...more like a hp singlefin than a hull, it may have a touch of belly up front to make it more slippery...he's patented his shape for some odd reason, would be interested to know whats going on with it but im assuming that maybe he uses the term 'hull' in a more techincal sense...less in a style sense?
believe i read that the board is 18 3/4" wide also!!
Ryan, I love the work you do and the joy you convey in your blog. Your boards look great!
Here's a thread on the Polfer Board.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unNJBjoLPlc&feature=player_embedded#at=73
Good 2nd video tri planes a Jeff Ho innovation according to an old crusty I have surfed with.
I'd be impressed if he was doing all that on a flex fin and a Liddle style hull.
But, WTF do I know?
fucking lame
The guy is such a good surfer that he could probably shred on a saucepan...
Beautiful piece of surfing anyway.
Looks forced.
Thanks for this post, pretty effective piece of writing.
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