I don't know how I pulled it off. But there I was, sitting in crystal clear water, feeling the swells pass underneath me. Me and a few friends sitting on the glass-like ocean. The surf wasn't huge, but it was perfect for the state I was in. My first wave was the best. Shoulder-high, leftward reeling, fast, long, forgiving. I could just go from top to bottom to top to bottom until it let me out.
When I kicked out and paddled back to where the guys were sitting I looked down through the clear water at the ocean floor eight feet below, dunked my face in and wished I could drink it all.
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5 comments:
i feel you man, got another grom on the way. it;s almost like your own reberth. best of luck!
Oh boy here we go again.
Long switch back walk. Always worth it though even if there is no surf. Juvenile Eagles diving fo fish. Extermely clear water. Always beautiful.
Love it.
Thank you for sharing your journey, it is very inspiring, and I use it to motivate me with my own fat loss journey.
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