"Did you see that?!"
We both asked the question at the same time. As if we could have missed it. The tide had dropped so low on Sunday morning that it turned a monolithic rock way out in the ocean into a left point break. This was a true mysto spot, one that we hardly ever had to share with other surfers, purely because it rarely actually worked. But the minus tide was working some magic and it switched on like a light. Head-high sheetglass barreling lefts for two hours. Just Nash and me (and some other dude who must have spotted us through the trees, but he didn't seem to want to catch waves). This was Sunday, by the way, a day that I was going to write off because the reports read 5 ft. at 9 seconds...
The picture above was from the first spot we checked. Not as good as the second, but you get the idea.
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7 comments:
Nice find sissy. I love surfing new lines and empty peaks on small clean swells. But whenever I paddle out to a lone spot I get a little weary of what's lurking beneath.... is shark week over yet??
That was such a fun sesh, I am still thinking about how good it was. I was pretty freaked when I saw that grey form swim beneath me. Glad I kept my mouth shut about it because the good vibe did not need to be ruined.
Never right off 5 @9...
Later that evening was super fun also.
Isn't it grand!
In no way related to your post but thought you might be interested to see the pinnipedification of you banner I knocked up this morning.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3074/2577036291_484b9c6cdb.jpg?v=0
If you want a JPEG of the original just let me know.
Keep up the mighty fine blogging!
Bugger.
Try this link instead:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93176495@N00/2577036291/
Hoping for a little of the same luck today.
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