I just bought "Occumentary," a flick about one of my first surf heroes, Mark Occhilupo. The reason why I liked Occy so much was because of all the surfers on tour during the '80s, he seemed to have the most personality and pure stoke for the sport. He had great style and was always giggling in that high-pitched voice of his. Not to mention that he's goofy foot, surfing with the most backside power I'd ever seen (J-Bay).
I pretty much suck when I have to go right, a fact that got me thinking: Wouldn't it be cool if you could pick any surfer in history to mentor you? Thinking of it as a "desert island coach," who would be the best surfer to impart wisdom, pointers, and probably more importantly: Who would be the most fun to have as a teacher?
Taj Burrows was a close second (those Aussies often seem to avoid "sea jock" syndrome), as was Rob Machado (a goofy who can ride anything).
Who would you pick?
Again, if you haven't seen it, check this link for the opening sequence from Occumentary. Notice the slash where Occy's front foot is completely off the board...
Peter Bjorn & John - Me and Julio Down by the Schoolyard
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11 comments:
Fun post. Rob Machado sounds pretty good to me - he'd probably be easy to get along with on a desert island, too. Tom Curren would also be a strong contender...
Since I'm mainly a longboarder, I'd have to pick Herbie Fletcher. He just does it. The best way I can describe him is to say he surfs with a lot of joie de vivre. It's a beautiful thing.
Sunny. He'd sucker punch everyone in the line up and I'd pick off all the set waves. Or Dora. Apres surf partner in true crimes and general thievery. Taking out clowns in the line up still applies, of course.
slater -he's an east coast kid too. he has serious wave knowledge, power, style and some technical knowledge and design phylosophy.
Definitely Tom Curren (a.k.a God)...
Just check "Searching for Tom Curren".
Rell....pure stoke, grace and beauty on a board. Bonga....dude is glued to the board at any angle. Machado....just looks fun. Curren....would like to crack that sullen shell.
Parko - Hands down.
Machado here too.
Machado is a great choice. I like the fact that he's versastile enough to compete and win Pipeline, but can ride fish, longboards, bonzers, thumbs, and make it look easy. He's not afraid to smile in the line-up either.
Curren might be tough to get info out of, but he's also one of my favorite surfers!
I don't know as much about Parko and Sunny (is he out of jail yet?).
I'd go with Joel Tudor for sure. His style is just too good. He also rides a variety of fun retro boards...even a longboard at Pipe. Second up would have to be Chris Malloy and/or Machado. Actually any of the Malloys would be great. I'm sorry but I covet everything they do...their activism, their surfing, their films.
Tom Curren, but if he was too stoned I'd take Larry Bertleman.
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