Monday, November 05, 2007

Gimme Shelter

For some reason, I felt a bit desperate on Sunday. I keep thinking that every session could be my last for a while. The baby could come any day (we're 3 weeks away now) and because many of the breaks I surf are out of phone range, I worry that I'll miss a call saying the water's broken.

So Sunday felt a little strange; the water was choppier than I would have liked and I couldn't seem to position myself on the shifty peaks. Every once in a while a speedy left would roll through way outside to the south, so that's where we ended up, away from the crowd that battled for a more consistent (but poorly shaped) right. After more than an hour, I'd only snagged a couple sloppy waves and was starting to get frustrated. My internal clock was ticking.

Finally, OS, Rye and I decided to paddle far outside and wait for the next big left that would roll through. Bobbing around out there, we commented that getting on one of those rifling set waves would make the session. So we waited. We thought we were too far out, then we got caught inside. Closeouts shut down across the cove. The tide went out. Rye grabbed one that looked pretty good. More time passed.

Then, finally, a set wave approached that showed potential. I paddled hard for it, made a late (and somewhat sketchy) drop, set my left rail, then burned along, taking a high line. It felt good. About halfway though the ride, I saw a guy paddle onto the shoulder and drop in. "Hey!" I yelled, "Douche!" The obvious tunnel vision of a newbie. He jumped off and I avoided his board, pumping back up the face.

I ended up about halfway across the beach, so I hoofed it back down to the rip on the south side to see if I could grab another. You know what? I did.

The photo above is kind of weird. I was on my way in after my last wave of the day, just bellying on some whitewater, and the wave just smoothed out and reformed. So I popped up, did a quick little turn, and noticed that it was going to pitch a bit so I tucked into the little closeout. I guess I'm trying to extract as much nectar from the session as possible. Rye had gone in and was playing with my camera on the beach. OS is on the left with a new Black Beauty under his arm.

Ah, precious moments.

Rolling Stones - Gimme Shelter


Patch said...

Into the womb as the baby is heading out of it. Good luck with the kiddo, daddio!

G said...

What up Tubesteak? A little sneaky poo. Can't wait to be up there with you guys.

Papa surf said...

Yes, Your surfing will suffer the first year. But After they hit a year old you start to get to go again. At least if you plan to be an involved father. Involved with your kid not surfing that is.
Currently down here in Mazatlan and still able to catch a few waist to chest high waves even though it's a "family vacation." I have to sacrifice and ride the beach break at our hotel instead of some of the point breaks around town. Also missed yesterday entirely (the best day). All in a days work as a dad.

Kono said...

you can make time for yourself and still be a great father, in fact you have to or you'll go insane, but no one can explain the shock your system is in for the first few months, hope you don't like to sleep, try to work a system, the girl gave the boy his last feeding at 11pm or so and it was Daddy time from then until 6am in my case, needless to say some of the best moments of my life came during the wee hours as my son fell asleep in my arms, call it catching the perfect wave, either way good luck and congrats.
btw, my girl's water broke at 6am on a saturday morning after daddy was out at the bar until about 1am, roughly 3 weeks early.

nm said...

The v-man's been making treks to the beach since he was 3 weeks old.

You'll figure it out...

Toddy said...

One of the proudest (and most relieving) moments you'll have is that first dawn patrol with your kid.

Chum said...

Those are some great insights on my impending fatherhood. Thanks. I especially loved Kono's comment about being at the bar only hours before the labor began... Sounds like something that could happen to me.

Papa Surf, cool to hear that you're getting some family friendly waves south of the border. My wife is actually already planning a trip to Bali in April (!). Though I should feel lucky, I'm actually dragging my feet a little - I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the anticipation of Babi, so Bali seems like such a leap right now... Stay tuned for a blog post about this dilemma...

nm, speaking of lucky, you have such a great beach family lifestyle. I totally admire that.

chuk said...

you can be a good family man and a surfer, for sure. with some little help from your wife it's simple.
I've got a couple kid's and everything's fine. Dont surf as much as before, but I enjoy more!!!