Monday, February 11, 2008

Ready... Set... WHERE'S THE SURF?

This homeless dude with an heirloom tomato nose approached as we struggled into our wetsuits.

"You're surfing?" he inquired, his breath smelling vintage 3am. "Ain't it cold?"

Yes, we answered.

He looked over the cliff, down to where we were planning to do our thing. It was so well-protected from the storm surf that it was hardly working. A longboarder bunny-hopped along, trying to milk some momentum from a slow-roller.

"Not much going on down there," he said. "Ever heard of Sandy Beach in Hawaii? I used to body surf that place a long time ago." The odor was really bad -- the kind of sour twang that reminded you of long-forgotten pickle jars. "I seen a lot of guys get hurt there."

We nodded.

"Well, have fun and don't freeze!" he said. "It's like you get all suited up, climb down, get in the water, and just sit out there. It's like: Ready... Set... WHERE'S THE SURF?"

Then, right on queue, he spun around and hopped onto a city bus that had just rolled into the parking lot.

True story.

Note: We actually DID surf, and had a decent time. Pictures are all of the spots that we didn't tempt fate at on Sunday... The second to the last one reminds me of Sasquatch.


rye said...

yo chum, the interactive music section is a great addition to the blog. love how you can just click on it. wish all things could be that simple.
This winter surfing thing is tuff - (and your photos show it's true grey) for the ruggid to say the least. i keep dreaming about the summer sessions. - this weekend looks good. but yaknow how that goes. kinda like "ready... set ... WHERE'S THE SURF?" or maybe more fitting "ready... set... TO MUCH SURF."

slim said...

What a bunch of pussies...

Toddy said...

It snowed last night in New York and rained this morning in New York.
I was real excited to get some snowy surf in.
Someday soon.

rye said...

thanks slim i was kinda asking for that one.

i hear you toddy. had a couple good days at rye on the rocks with the snow falling.

seamouse said...

Lovin' Vampire Weekend. They play my home town this week but tickets sold out in half a day, way before I could get to a store to get some! don't that just suck?

I Love the winter.
I Hate the winter.

G said...

Yo Sis,

What's up for this weekend? Buoys are reading 12' at 21 secs right now. Aye yay yay. Should shape up nicely for the weekend though.