The Best Thing About Blogs...

...Is that when you open up a dialog about art, writing, film, etc., people directly involved in the subject matter you're discussing can come and be part of the exchange. I bring this up because I just noticed that author of the new Miki Dora book "All for a Few Perfect Waves" came by and gave his two cents about DiCaprio's involvement in a potential film version of his work. You can read David Rensin's comment HERE under "drensin." Basically, he pointed out that all the actors suggested as alternatives to Leo were valid (even Hedaya...), but that none of those guys offered to buy the script. Leonardo did though, and for that I have to give him credit. It's an amazing story that is ripe for the screen. As I said before, I'm not hating on DiCaprio as a person--I'm just not a huge fan of his acting.

As a matter of fact, since writing the post I've had some interesting debates with some of my most film-buffy friends, many of whom also think Leo can pull off 'Da Cat. I hope so, but until we're actually able to squabble about the movie itself, I'm looking forward to picking up a copy of the book and reading it on my next Mexico trip (in about 27 days and counting...) David, if you're still out there, thanks for stopping by!

The book drops on April 4, 2008. Pick it up at Powell's.


Syd Barrett - Jugband Blues

Hitting the G-Spot

The third annual G-Spot Invitational happened again on Sunday in some small but amazingly fun low tide beachbreak. The sun was out all day, we surfed for nearly three hours, and nobody got hurt... although there were plenty of friendly drop-ins. It's starting to feel like springtime in the Pacific Northwest with mellow waves, periods of slack wind, and days where it can be sunny, rainy, and a little snowy all in the course of a few hours. My family even braved the snowy drive over the mountain range to attend the festivities and had a cold beer waiting for me when I came in. It hit the spot.

The official results are as follows:

Best Wipeout: Nash
Best Wave: Tie between Marque and Slim
Most Fun: The guy in the black wetsuit...

See past G-Spot recaps here and here.

Police - Message in a Bottle

Toyz for Toobz

Today I uncovered an amazing subculture on youtoob: videos of remote control surfers. Brocrastinating (as usual), I pushed the play button and my jaw dropped. Part of me wonders if the video is fake, part of me wonders how a stupid plastic toy can surf so well, and the other part ponders if music can be any more "farfengroovin" than the soundtrack provided by "Natural Aphrodisiac." At any rate, this could be may fastest route to getting a spitting barrel, if my progression as a surfer continues to skid like it has this winter!

Red House Painters - Revelation Big Sur

White on White

My new board just made an appearance on The Swallowtail Society yesterday. As with anything Manuel Caro makes, it looks like pure magic. I shudder to think of the ledges this will inspire me to throw myself over.

6'7" Mandala Round Pin Quad
20" x 2.5"
Lokbox AK4 fins
Tapered red cedar stringer
Moonlight Glassing
Clear, wet-sanded gloss (So CORE!)

Thanks to all who contributed to last year's birthday board fund, and to Manny, who's a great guy and an amazing shaper.

MGMT - Time to Pretend

Sissy Wish

This is the time of year when you start looking at old travel photos and wishing you were somewhere warmer and drier, with more consistent waves and less consistent internet connections. Somewhere like this...







Yes, there is a band called SISSY WISH. And yes, they are pretty damn good. Weird.

Doing Dora Justice

It seems like the only time I get to fixate on surfing these days
is when I'm reading a magazine on the toilet in the morning.

Yesterday during my daily ritual, I read in the most recent SURFER
that a new Miki Dora biography is being released in April.

An interview with the author revealed that the film rights to the
book have already been optioned by Leonardo DiCaprio's production
company. I believe the author described playing Dora as a "plum role."
He went on to say that he thought DiCaprio was a great person to
play the part.

Don't get me wrong. I think Leonardo is a fine actor who has come
a very long way since his early films. I also believe that Leo is a really
great guy who is actually concerned with the fate of the environment.

But I really don't think he's the right guy to play Dora.

From everything I've read, it seems like Dora was charismatic, dark,
sarcastic, tough, sly, mysterious, complex, bitter, charming, mean,
crazy, and -- perhaps most importantly -- an incredible surfer.

Just because DiCaprio has played a con-artist before, doesn't mean
he has what it takes to do Miki Dora justice on celluloid. Though he's
capable of playing a goof-ball and a heart-throb, I don't see him
pulling off wearing a Nazi trench coat and helmet to play tennis in
Beverly Hills and chaining his sports car to a pole in the parking lot
(or something like that).

Let alone being able to surf.

It would require some serious Frankie Avalon-style CGI to make Leo
look like he can surf, or even carry a surfboard from the car to the sand in Malibu convincingly.

But that's just one man's opinion. I've selected a few actors who I do think might be able to handle the part and posted them below Dora's headshot...

Miki Dora











Mark Ruffalo











Jake Gyllenhaal











Josh Brolin






Jason Patric











Casey Affleck








If you had a say, who would you cast? Or would you just scrap the whole project and leave 'Da Cat 'da hell alone?