Monday, September 21, 2009

Single-Wave Session


Sunday morning was pretty sloppy. Seemed like the ocean was having a hard time simmering down. After scouring the North Coast we settled on the above spot, where we battled a Sisyphean paddle-out only to have to do it all over again when we'd misjudge the line-up and get caught inside. After a couple hours, I finally scratched into a hefty left, at a moment when I was ready to give up, and rode it all the way to the sand. Done and done. Yes it was worth it, and no I wasn't on the Pony.

6 comments:

tres_arboles said...

Caught inside after a long scratch. One of the worst things in surfing. I've given up the day after experience a paddle out like that, over the years. No wave sessions.

Or, how about paddling out undergunned on BIG PNW winter day, making a wave, kicking out, breaking a leash and swimming for 30 minutes back in only to have to walk a mile down to beach to find your board? Most definitely not worth it.

Glad you got one, at least.

Slim said...

Bummer. I guess I'm glad I decided to drink Saturday night instead.

Chum said...

Not really a bummer. I was glad.

Wet and Cold said...

looks purdy

Gaz said...

Slim and I surfed with a guy who was on his 5'6" speedy lil fucker he was, ask Slim for directions........

Totor said...

Single-wave sessions happen to other people than me, and in other parts of the globe?!?!?
Pretty reassuring!!!!