Wednesday, October 20, 2010
I don't know how I pulled it off. But there I was, sitting in crystal clear water, feeling the swells pass underneath me. Me and a few friends sitting on the glass-like ocean. The surf wasn't huge, but it was perfect for the state I was in. My first wave was the best. Shoulder-high, leftward reeling, fast, long, forgiving. I could just go from top to bottom to top to bottom until it let me out.
When I kicked out and paddled back to where the guys were sitting I looked down through the clear water at the ocean floor eight feet below, dunked my face in and wished I could drink it all.