Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Swim to reach the end.



Astro Coast - Surfer Blood
As much as you want to hate on it because of the whole "hipsterizing of surf culture" BS, you just can't—because it's actually good.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Yakety-yak.




It was a great first day back.
A couple guys got the shack.
The lefts made my lips go smack.
And as you can see, the rights didn't lack.
But it was a full-on walrus attack.
And those old dudes weren't afraid to hack.
And my wetsuit's zipper breaking was wack.
Ack.

Half of me's the gasoline, but the other half’s the surf.


Holiday - Vampire Weekend
I'm guilty of drinking the kool-aid on this one. Great album. Great lyric. Listen to it above.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Dear Surf,





I still love you.
More than ever, actually.
I've just been so busy.
Which is a good thing I guess.
And thanks for putting out a little last week,
Despite my lack of visits recently.

I hardly ever write.
I never send flowers.

But I'll make it up to you come Valentine's Day.
Promise.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Thursday, December 17, 2009

"You can't shred on a hull."



And they're next to impossible to get tubed on as well, not to mention ride backside...

(Do yourself a favor and mute the youtube player, then add your own soundtrack.)

Monday, December 14, 2009

ALL THAT WE CAN (NOT) SEE


ANOTHER ROADSIDE ATTRACTON







Friday was cold. Air temps were in the teens when I woke up and packed my boards on top of Rye's veg-mobile. On the drive out, there was some ice on the roads so we took it easy. That may have been why I had a better chance to look a little closer at the landscape I normally would just blow by, blinded by stokey anticipation. Down a ravine on the right side of the road was a blue sheet-metal barn and through the trees the morning sun hit it, illuminating an old surfboard. I told Rye and he slammed on the breaks (carefully) and u-turned back to see if we could get a closer look.

Down a dirt driveway there were a couple of these blue sheds and three trailers that had tarps and other add-ons. Not many windows. There was ice covering everything. Three dogs ran up to the car and we wondered if maybe we shouldn't be down on somebody's property this early in the AM. Then an old woman walked out of one of the trailers with a cigarette hanging from her lips. We asked if we could take a picture of the surfboard and she said ask her daughter-in-law in the other trailer. We walked to the other trailer, which, with all it's windows covered with blue plastic, looked more like two big shoeboxes attached together perpendicularly. Knocked softly.

Before you read any further. This is not a farmer's daughter story. There is no cow milking machine or buttered popcorn coming. No. The young woman answered the door. Peered at us suspiciously from beneath some huge elk antlers. Then she just motioned back to the other trailer and said, "If she says it's alright then it's alright."

No. Her husband's board, which had massive rotten holes in the sides and crusty ivy hanging off the back where it leaned against the wall, wasn't for sale.

Not that exciting of a story, really. And no, I can't refund the last 50 seconds you lost reading it. When we got to the spot, though, the waves looked pretty good. Not as good as the last session where the winds groomed the lines perfectly, but not too shabby either. Mostly rights. I took out my newly-repaired Andreini, but probably should have stuck with something a little more suited to shifty beach break. But I still caught a few and coaxed it into a few bumpy rights. Did I mention it was cold? There was ice on the beach when we arrived and the water was somewhere around 44 degrees.

Monday, December 07, 2009

GOTTAGOTOKNOW




So many factors that might make you opt to pull the covers back over your head and surf some other time: sub-zero temps, icy roads, 29 mph offshores, bouys giving wacky information (due to those offshores). But that old saying eggs you on. Gotta go to know.

Glad I did.

Friday, December 04, 2009

SMELLS LIKE ROSES.


Donald going for the layback barrel, Greenough style.
See you in Pasadena.

Wednesday, December 02, 2009

Monday, November 30, 2009

Bad breath too...




I think I prefer the kind of sharks with 5 rows of razor-sharp teeth to these freaks of nature. If I got attacked by one I'd make sure to have some floss on hand and maybe a tongue scraper to tame the gnarly halitosis.

Thanks, Rye.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Webcam Love





If you were there yesterday, you're probably pretty thankful. Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

I WON THE PISSING CONTEST


Drawing I made a while ago. As relevant to surfing, I guess, as any other activity that a bunch of guys are involved in.

P.S. I've never run into the pissing contest mentality with girls. At least not in surfing.

Friday, November 20, 2009

What guys who don't surf much do in their spare time. Besides blogging.


For those who don't know, there's a colossal circle jerk online called the Oregon Surf Pages (mentioned in this video) where a bunch of doods sit around bragging about how "sick" the surf was yesterday and dissing anything that isn't wrapped in buffalo check flannel and Carharts. Rumor has it that a couple of the wannabe bro-brahs that hang there actually do other kinds of surfing than the internet variety.

But even the Pacific Gyre has a gem floating in it once in a while. Someone told me about this video and I had to actually brave the high fecal chloroform levels there to check it. I'm glad I did.

By the way, I think the bespectacled guy in this video might be partially based on yours truly. I love Mollusk and all kinds of impractical equipment... but I don't wear horn rims.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Thursday, November 12, 2009

TRIM MACHINES



...AND THE DAMAGE DONE.

Thanks to Marc Andreini, trimming's now constantly on my brain too. Let's just hope he gets better real soon from his recent injury so he can make enough boards for everyone to experience some quality trim.

Monday, November 09, 2009

LOOK INTO MY THIRD EYE...


...and your brown eye will pucker up. The mysto slab known as The Yeti was firing while the contest at Oregon's other big wave was underway a couple weeks ago. I shudder to think what this sucker was doing yesterday.

Pics of people actually surfing it at the Wend Blog.

Thursday, November 05, 2009