Monday, January 29, 2007

One Wave Day

Saturday was bigger than the bouys were reading, and gnarlier than the 4-star rating given by Magic Seaweed's forecast site. It looked pretty unsurfable at first, but we went for it anyway, paddling out on the north side of Shorties. Amazingly, there were some workable lefts firing through, if you could find the shifty peak.

Smithy found it first and ripped a long head-high grinder. I think he caught a couple more too, the lucky sod. After being manhandled by a few head-plus closeouts (where I'd have to belly back to the rip just to get outside again), I finally grabbed a big left. Popped up and my feet were too close together, but the drop was so hairy that I couldn't adjust. I just hung on for dear life, the instability of my stance freezing me. I flew down the line, eyeballs bulging, legs shaking, trying to find my way back up the face. Warp speed achieved, I assessed my situation: I was heading directly into a closing righthand section. Exit plan? Couldn't make it over the back, so I had to do my patented swan dive into the trough.

After a few gymnastic twirls under the whitewater, I emerged, my left leg still being yanked by the elastic leash. I made it. Paddled back to the rip and back out to the lineup, only to be caught inside by one of the biggest monsters I've ever experienced.

The photo above is from after we got out. I'd consider it mid-sized in comparison to the sneaker sets.

Toll: Two surfboards dinged (neither of which were mine). One glove nearly ripped off my hand during a duckdive. One giant dungeness crab wandering shellshocked in the foam (which I caught and released).

Of Montreal - I Was Never Young

12 comments:

Diane said...

Oh my! This is pretty scary. Have mercy!

G said...

Toll: My wave count, our livers and the oh so unfortunate WSU Cougars...not to mention the cougars at the Dune.

Whiffleboy said...

Damn, dude. Sounds pretty hairy. How long can surf out there this time of year?

ras said...

Sick! Shorties does seem to start closing out when it gets a bit overhead.


rassurly1

OS said...

I would add to the toll one entire line-up. I recall the final clean-up set coming in and washing everybody in the line clean to shore never to paddle out again that day.

Dub Resurrected said...

Yeah, Shorties just does not like the long period swells in the 17 sec range. Loves those shorter period spring swells that make it all peaky. Not to mention the carnage down there right now, that fallen tree and the sand in the south end has been stripped. Old man winter's played it toll. Still you got wet and it was a lot warmer than it's been.

nmm said...

Fabulous pic!

Clean lefts rolling in at head-n'a-half to DoH at a certain lighthouse to the south.

Saturday was an absolute beauty day to be in the water.

Chum said...

Whiff: 3 hours is usually how long it takes before my toes start numbing up...

I seem to always think that Shorties can handle size under 10 feet, but yeah, that interval put a little too much power/depth to the surge.

Gonna have to find that lighthouse.

Doc said...

I was one cove over (north) and got my ass handed to me on more than one wave...

Also had to go in once when my boot was nearly stripped from my foot...and I can hardly get the things on...

I was there in the PM...but the size looks about right...

Definite "Oh Fuck!" moments scratching for the outside.

Foulweather... said...

Well, you got one more wave than me that day. I got crushed and held down and called it a day. As you know, yesterday was much more handleable and very surfable. Four hours in the water though... I need to remember not to attempt to surf after the second stage of hypothermia sets in.

rob70 said...

Shoulda ate the crab.

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