Wednesday, January 31, 2007

More Like It








Attempting to surf huge winter swell (see last post) is like swinging two bats in the hole before going to the plate in baseball. When you finally step into the box on a day like yesterday, surfing summery waves seems all too easy.

It was a near-perfect day: gentle offshore breezes, consistent sets, long lefts, sunshine. I surfed with one other guy for most of my three-hour session, the owner of a surf shop in Seaside. I also ran into Foul Pete, who had already been out there several hours before I arrived.

It was a good day for a quad. As a matter of fact, I found myself wishing for a little more size as the tide quickly drained out of cove. So soon we forget the winter's wrath when given gentle gifts like these...

Now that's more like it.

Professor Murder - Mountain

13 comments:

Foulweather... said...

Great shots. Looks like it got a bit more hollow as the tide dropped. Wish I'd had the time, energy and warmth to stay out. Still it was good to actually surf some workable face and attempt to tuck in...

surferbrat said...

Hot Damn! Now those are my kind of waves...minus the left part! That's it. I'm sold, Oregon is the next frontier. Nice shots...do you have a personal photographer or is that someone else surfing?

Dub Resurrected said...

Ah yeah!!! Good to see things shaping up down there. Man, I was going to work a full week as I just booked a ticket to Kauai at the end of Feb, but that is not going to happen especially with weather patterns changing. May have to make a longer treck to the lighthouse and see what all the chatter's about as of late. Been a while.

Chum said...

Pete - The lower tide made it more hollow, but somehow smaller and less lined-up. I think that between time was really the best.

Brat - I always try to snap a few pics before I leave. Never get photos of myself unless my photog is present (my wife tends to only have patience in warmer climes - see my mexico posts).

Dub - Looks like the swell's gonna rise a foot or two this week, which will be nice for where ever you roam.

Slim said...

that's it. i'm taking tomorrow off.

pushingtide said...

Great pics man!!

Love that first one. Sure that is where you got your title from.

Shit I wanted that this morn. Lucky!

Patch said...

A blue ribbon day with plenty of stoke!

Anonymous said...

Off topic.....but I think you should do something like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIEwvW8HgOk&eurl=

oh....and cool shots.

Chum said...

Funny enough, I was just looking at Wooster Collective yesterday and it made me want to do that. I also started a painting yesterday that I have been taking process photos of...

Thanks!

phil said...

nice!

Patrick said...

Good God, I really did miss out,
and FP was beating the drum for an early week session all along.

Love the lighting on those pics!

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