The swell came back in a big way on Saturday. When we got to Seaside, there were already 30 rubberized souls sitting in the rain on the righthander that was peeling perfectly back into the rip. I noticed that the left was going mostly unridden. We're talking shoulder to head high A-frames. The left wasn't quite as pretty, but I'm always willing to sacrifice a little quality for the chance to get a few more waves. Paddling out, I tried to avoid the crowd by choosing a route that put me outside the farthest longboarder. As soon as I made it to the outside, a set came through. I paddled past the first wave, and saw that the second one was perfectly lined-up for me and a longboarder who had position. Surprisingly, the logger backed off! I spun around quickly and did a two stroke entry into the steep face. It was a perfect right. I did a nice long bottom turn and flew down the line, past a bunch of guys who were most likely cursing my luck. Though I finally made it to the left side of the peak, that wave I caught within three minutes of hitting the water was my best of the day.
On our way home, OS and I speculated about how many really good days like that the North Coast of Oregon gets a year. I could only think of five or so days this year that I could call "epic," but then again, I only get out 2-3 times a week (if I'm lucky). We then started trying to devise a matrix to determine the quality of life a city offers by certain factors - like number of good surf days, snow days, climbing days, biking days, etc. available to the city dwellers.
What do you think?
My Morning Jacket - Off the Record
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6 comments:
Sounds like a quality score Siss.
pushingtide
Chum, city life in Stumptown is grand. Surfing life is better. But then you gotta work and there's no work on the coast there. It's a seeswa that's for sure. Meanwhile you still manage to score some good waves and share them with us, your loyal readers. Bukowsky said that what was important was simplicity. Why complicate lifewith too much thinking?
Nice go out Chum!
2-3 times per week, you bastard. With full time employment comes limited windows...but also Soylent Green. Sometimes the big green pill ain't so bitter.
I love this rainy post. Makes me feel nostalgic. Sometimes there's nothing better than being pissed on by the gods, while you bob around in the Pacific. Keep on keeping on.
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