Saturday, July 14, 2007

Hollow-lujah!





OS is insits that I put these pics up while I still have an internet connection, so here they are. For those who haven't been following my blog for the past couple years, my goal in life is to get shacked. And though it hasn't happened in the last week, I've gotten damn close. I've also paid for my boldness. Both of my boards (my North Pacific AND my Mandala) are now casualties of a psychosis I call "tunnel vision." That's why I'm riding my 5'8" in this series of pics. Wouldn't that be a great reality TV show? A show called "Tunnel Vision" where an novice surfer tries to get his very first tube? Imagine the carnage! Not sure if the camera crew would have the patience for the payoff of an actual barrel, but it would be great to have a coach like Occy or whomever you'd pic teaching a dude like me how to get the old in-n-out. Maybe the show could be called "In-N-Out Urge." No, I like Tunnel Vision better.

Anyway, so much for building up to the big waves. We've had some swell the past few days. I have more (less interesting) photos, which I'll post later when I'm not drunk on Tonas in a ramshackle bar surrounded by stray pigs, mosquitos, and torrential rain...

Jeff Buckley - Hallelujah

14 comments:

srfnff said...

Holy bee-hach batman. Shackadelic bone crunching sinus packing ass kicking, etc. etc...

Mick said...

I don't know how in the hell you've never been shacked and you don't look like any novice I've ever seen

ras said...

chum,

novie or whatever ..you're ripping. tomate una cervecita fria para mi chico.

plus, you got big balls to take off on overhead waves with a tiny board.

surferbrat said...

Holy shit...that last shot...that's a big ass wave. Good for you! And good luck in your quest, my friend!

Slim said...

nice pics, chums. surf it. so ding-ski, you want me to Fedex you the Hammer!?

Anonymous said...

Go 5'8"! Favorite size. Love how that wave looks mellow and then by the last pic it is throwin' and you are flyin'. Rippin' Sissy!

-push

Whiffleboy said...

Totally agree with the above comment. Wave looks extra fun till ya see the last one and you're like "holy shit!". Not that that wouldn't be fun. It'd just be a lot funner knowing you were not at the bottom of the seabed shortly after the drop-in.

Charge it!!!

Nash said...

Chummers! That is sick dude. Sorry to hear you're down to one board but that is a legit wave. Way to charge dude! Can't wait for a slideshow when you get back.

Patch said...

Nice. Way to throw the 'juevos' over and go!

Nuno said...

Nice!
ras is right, you're a brave guy!

Doc said...

Just for perspective...(and some reverse psychology)...

You are a wuss...

That wave was tiny...

You should have snapped it off the bottom, locked it in and gotten spit out in a froth of phyto-plankton, aerated salt water and testosterone...

Nice tho...

Nash said...

How bad is the Mandala?

Gaz said...

Just take your foot off the accelerator...... what's the worst that could happen?

Festus Porkmeyer said...

Solid wave, (not so) Sissypuss. Nice. Forget what I wrote about you needing a conventional 6'8" minigun, I guess.

Sounds like you might need that Occster, though. Why don't you stop in Humboldt on the way home?
Pick up the board and enjoy some porkpitality? Fun waves around here this morning.

FP