Heaven on Earth = A full day surfing head-high waves followed by sitting in a hot tub, beer in hand, looking through the window at my wife and baby. Hanging out with my wife, baby boy, and best friends, drinking good wine, watching football in the afternoon, even playing a little Guitar Hero...We spent the whole holiday weekend at the beach. It was my first time back in the water in three months. Saturday was really disheartening, surf-wise -- I couldn't even make the paddle out and had to forfeit, belly in, and run to the rip. When I finally did, the waves were doo-doo anyway. I got skunked and seriously questioned whether I would be able to keep surfing if my conditioning was this bad.
Sunday was redemption. Big, bowly lefts (and even a few powerful rights). I was a glutton because I had a whole peak to myself, and I'd just cruise back to the rip after each ride, again and again. My final wave was an outside bomb; I heard OS hooting, after which he said it looked about head-and-a-half high.
Monday was freezing. Waist-high peelers that petered out pretty quick. Only 4 guys in the water at 9am and one managed to get my way. I tried to fade down below him and clipped the tail of his board. My Skip Frye Flex Fin left a long gash from rail to stringer on his board... His tail left a new 12-inch long channel down the middle of mine.
It was an amazing weekend though, and one the whole family plans on replicating soon and often!
Pictures are all from the day we're now calling "Super-Bowly Sunday" (two weeks early).
Foghat - Slow Ride (Guitar Hero Version)
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14 comments:
Glad to have been a part of it. Sunday was super...still surfing 'em in my mind.
Let's do it again soon.
Nice pictures. Sounds like a great time with the family. In contrast, My wife and I are having our 6 year anniversary this Sunday. Everyone keeps asking what we are going to do, where we are going out to eat, what Hotel, etc. We decided tonight that isn't what we want. We want a day to ourselves. Drop off the 3 gremlins, down to the beach to surf together, out to breakfast, back to the beach, maybe read a book or another session. Pick up the kids around 5 and repeat in one year.
What a primo weekend Chum. Stoked for you!
Waaaaaarbeled but beggers cant be choosers
Damn straight. I spend most of my time below the lip anyway, so this beggar wasn't too choosy.
Two weeks kook!
Not sure what "two weeks" means, Anon... But I am definitely a kook.
oh, the superbowl! I stand corrected.
Chum, just popped by and asw the eyar summary... congratulations on little Nico.. he looks a treat, and welcome to the ride of your life.
Happy New Year.
score. can you be a wave glutton if you're the only one on the peak?
life is good eh.
Chum-
Sounds like a kine weekend. I dig that top pic, it reminds me of the cover for Nowhere the classic 90's alt-rock album by Ride.
Daniel, that's exactly what I was thinking when I put it up there, except in reverse!
Who's the kook getting ready to try to get barreled bending over?
Yo mama! "Mama Anon" I believe. No, I have no idea... Snapped these just before I left. Shoulda been there 2 hours ago.
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