One Wave

It only takes one wave
For a whole session
To be saved.

Bon Voyage

I sent these watercolors/drawings to Brazil for the Santos Surf Art show last week and they just arrived. Now my wife's telling me that she wants to send me down there for my birthday... How do you say "stoked" in Portuguese?

Stop the perfect left, I want to get off.

A little stoke nugget to keep you busy while I'm out of town tomorrow. I'll get back to you in about two days. Rumored to be in Chile (confirmed to be in Africa), the left in this clip lasts about that long.

Thanks to Slim for sending this the day before a weekend where I couldn't surf. And don't forget to do the new poll over there --->

Click-Turn-Click-Click

Standing in the same spot, with the same set rolling through, I snapped three shots from the north to the south. Wednesday was pretty fun.

Pretty Crowded

But there were still some pretty cool moments to be had...

SURF MOVIES AND BEER AND BEER AND BEER AND BEER AND BEER AND BEER AND

LIFESWELLS
A Surf Movie Night

Featuring:
Falzon's 1972 surf-hippie/cockfight masterpiece "Morning of the Earth"

Jeremias & Baffa's 2007 epigrammatic epic "One California Day"

And other gems, guaranteed!
(Surfy DJs Too!)

Thursday October, 16th
8-Close
Valentines
232 SW Ankeny St. 503 248 1600
Stumptown, USA

I met this guy at a restaurant who surfs and he bought me a drink when he found out I'm the salty dog behind this blog. A few weeks later he told me he's hosting this killer surf movie night Thursday that should be a stoke booster/slump buster on a rainy night. I made him the art above using an old sketch I did from pausing "Morning of the Earth" on my old TV and drawing the quintessential crouchy singlefin bottom turn with a #2 pencil. I was glad I could find a use for it.

Pass it on!

GHOST PEAK

Hunted a ghost peak Sunday morning.
It never seemed to be where I was.
Or was I never where it seemed to be?
But the wind was light and the water warm,
Haunted and happy was me.

Hollywood Wipes Out Again: Knight Rider

In case you missed it last night, the new Knight Rider Episode "Knight of the Iguana" featured some of the kookiest surf moments Hollywood has ever put on film. From shots of Mavericks and Pipe representing Todos Santos, Baja, to Kitt rolling "inconspicuously" with boards strapped to the roof, to "Mike" laying on his board with his legs spread eagle, radioing to Kitt to find out how to stand up as a huge setwave bears down on him.

The dialogue in the show made Johnny Utah's surf-speak in Point Break feel authentic. Here's one of my favorite quotes:

"Seems to me you gotta live life like surfing a wave. Some are big, some are small, but in order to ride any of 'em, you gotta let the wave take you."

"But what if it takes you somewhere you shouldn't go?"

"Heh. Shouldn't is a word that isn't in my vocabulary."

Please, somebody, capture this video on the Knight Rider website before the show gets cancelled. It's an all-time classic to be filed alongside surf gems like:

The North Shore
Point Break
Gidget (TV)
Surf School
Blue Crush
Batman Surfing

If you don't have 45 minutes to devote to the rerun online, you can see the trailer HERE.

This is WOR!

Somebody asked for some coolness this week, since I've been lacking in that department of late. I hope a little radness will suffice. Love 'em or hate 'em, the the Warriors of Radness seem to embrace the attitude of not taking themselves all that seriously in a land (and a sport) where that happens all too often.

Would Dora:

A. Be rolling over in his grave?
B. Be laughing hysterically from the grave?
C. Be cashing a bad check somewhere and not give a shit either?

Battle of the Surf Bros

I'm the Grass Stains, OS from Mojomentum is the Cockblockers. This is our third year in the same fantasy football league and it's always fun on those Sundays when we square off. Oftentimes we're surfing during the games, so we check our scores on the drive home. As you can see, I'm pretty anemic at the the WR position. I'll let you know how it went on Monday.

Attitude

This goes out to all the haters out there: If you're actually lucky enough to surf, then why are you so surly?

Since the '80s I've wondered why so many surfers are afflicted with that permanent stink-eye/chip-on-the-shoulder syndrome that seems to be the complete antithesis of the amazing activity they're involved in. And lately that attitude as trickled onto the comments of my blog, which I created almost four years ago as a celebration of the pure joy of surfing.

Oh well, maybe "The 'Tude Adjuster" will sort 'em out.

Drawing by Andrew Jeffrey Wright.