GREAT

Eight @ twelve
Felt like twelve @ eight.
Whatever it was,
It sure felt great.

One Wave

It only takes one wave
For a whole session
To be saved.

GHOST PEAK

Hunted a ghost peak Sunday morning.
It never seemed to be where I was.
Or was I never where it seemed to be?
But the wind was light and the water warm,
Haunted and happy was me.

A Poem with Teeth

It's not the toothy monsters in the water
Or the rocks near the shore
That I worry about.

It's the toothless monsters
Throwing rocks on the shore
That really freak me out.



(Original drawing is a Foulweather 'Zine outtake...)

GOLDEN

GOLDEN
My mind was clear
My body tired
My skin salty and dry
The waves were there
They cleaned my hair
The sun shined in the sky

From low tide pull
To high tide push
Four hours I did play
If you can’t surf every day of the week
Surf a week’s worth in one day.

***

Amazing how a good surf can get everything back in tune again. At least for a week or so...