Sunday, January 25, 2009

I Got Some Waves


The weekend before last was a wave-fest. Four days of surf in the 8-10 foot range at around 15 seconds with east winds. Friday was the biggest day, with crazy amounts of water flooding the cobblestones, making entry and exit (in the dark) the scariest part of the session. Rips were strong and hold-downs were long on Saturday, and the ocean reminded us who was boss on several occasions.

After hitting (almost) every spot on our quest for perfection, we finally cracked the code on Sunday and Monday, discovering that the place that most accommodated the pumping swell was the most obvious one - right where we started our search. Endless lefts and rights that held up when they looked like they might shut down, with plumes of mist blowing from the peaks. We surfed for nearly four hours a pop.

Throw in bluebird skies, a beach house with a hot-tub and wood stove, a stack of stoking surf movies, endless vittles and cold beer, and great friends old and new, and you have a recipe for and epic MLK holiday.

If this is winter, who needs spring?

5 comments:

Jamie Watson said...

I love your waves art!

Deepism said...

Agreed! Great picture. It would make a nice poster or screened print.

Congrats on the 4 days of glory. Please send some winds to your east coast readership that will hold far enought off the coast for a few days for head high LPS.

tres_arboles said...

You're killing me. I got shut out last weekend with the waves not showing according to the buoy readings up here (9@15 seconds was making nearly shoulderless peaks that heaved, broke, and mushed all over themselves). At this rate, I'm looking for spring to happen. Hah, even my word verification applies to my winter: "lamist" !

Chum said...

And you'll even notice a couple rights in there.

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