Monday, August 29, 2005

“Welcome home,” he moaned.

Went surfing yesterday, if you can call it that. We got to the beach and it started raining. The waves were rubble, small and choppy. We drove to three spots and then decided to hike in to a place we’d never tried: a half mile down to the beach on a steep, switchback trail. I stepped in dog shit along the way. When we got to the “desolate” location we noticed three surfers walking up from the direction of a parking lot on the next beach over. Their clothes probably stayed nice and dry inside their car. So we paddled out into the 2-foot slop. The water was a freezing yellowish green concoction with dead birds and other debris floating on the surface. I felt like an olive floating in a very dirty martini.

Surprisingly, we actually all caught a few waves, not that they were good. They were mostly closeouts though and sections were really tough to make. I caught maybe two where I rode a short distance, bottom turned, top turned, went straight as the lip collapsed. The slippery hike back up the sloppy slope would have made Sisyphus drop his rock and cry for mammy.

After we drove home, we unloaded our equipment and I accidentally switched boards with Nash, who has the same board bag as me. Welcome home indeed. I think my next entry will be about Mexico again.


This Oregon surf is enough to make a man want to take up fishing...

Wiley - "Pick U R Self Up"

7 comments:

Connie said...

"Yellowish green concoction with dead birds" ????? Eeeewww.... That's a slap back to reality when all you wanna do is dream of your idyllic vacation. Welcome home, indeed.

g-ronamo said...

dude, want to go out into the dirty martini today? 7' at 10 secs. That's of the Kettle One variety for us.

Patch said...

That first go out after a warm water bliss session is always tough.

Those Kane Garden boards are primo! I've been eyeing the ghostrider and sandpiper for a while.

Music-5ive Style-Deep Marsh

Chum said...

I'd love to go out for a little happy hour, but Mabeline is having an outpatient surgery today to remove that cap thingy. Looks like I have to wait until LA to get wet again.

Chum said...

Patch - I know. I wonder if a fish is to little of a board for me. The one I used in Mexico wasn't as girthy as the KG or standard Lis Fish shape. If I were to get a fish, would I have to go over 6 feet?

Patch said...

Chum,

I think it would be a good idea to get something slightly over 6, you don't want to sacrifice paddle power, that's why I like those KG boards, they take that into consideration.

When you get to L.A., let me know, I'll try and hook up for a paddle.

Diane said...

So sorry lorry. Glad to see you at least tried to make lemonade.