Sunday, September 09, 2007

Land O' Lefts


Back on my Manny again Thursday night. Bolted from work a little early to get some 8' at 10 seconds goodness. There's a spot where a stiff northwest wind blows offshore and 8 feet is more like 4-5. Shorties: A place people love to hate. For whatever reason. And the water is cold again. I hope I don't have start wearing gloves this month.

I'm loving my Manny more and more in these waves. Wedgey beachbreak seems to be the perfect playground for the 2+1. I have very little problem getting in early--you know the kinds of casual drop-ins where you have a few seconds to look down the line, get your bearings, and decide whether or not it's going to close out. The board has no problem riding really high on steep faces. One wave in particular I thought I'd get pitched, but I just kept flirting with the feathering lip and it stayed true and stable. So much speed, with spray blowing high into the air off my rail.

Confession: I unapologetically dropped in on someone on my first wave of the day. First time I'd ever done that, actually. This guy who'd just caught a wave paddled inside of me where I had been waiting for 15 minutes to catch my first. The peak was fickle, but I knew that if I waited it out, instead of chasing ghosts like the rest of the pack, it would pay off. Sure enough, the dude paddled up 10 feet to my left and was still on his stomach when the set I was waiting for arrived. He just turned around and started stroking for it and I thought, "Oh no he dii-in't!" and went for it. It was a stellar left that set the tone for the the rest of the session, which was a blast. I don't think he made the section anyway.

Does that make me a monster?


Nick Lowe - So It Goes

15 comments:

jb said...

That guy knew what he was doing. You had to go.

wave gods said...

We forgive you.

surferbrat said...

You know, I understand why you did that...because that guy was being a wave hog. He'd just gotten one, then he paddled around and took what would have been your rightful turn. Wave hogging is almost as bad as dropping in. I mean it's just the way it works a lot in a crowded peak and I get that--I get greedy myself sometimes, but the best functioning lineups are when people share waves.

Dub said...

Think I saw you burn someone on your last wave too? Hahahha! You were in a better spot though and the same guy paddled for the wave I got, didn't make it in, so I had to make the last minute late drop into that one. Glad I did because that set offered some of the best waves of the night and hate to see good waves go unridden esp. when there's a crowd. Still coulda been better though, maybe to much north, but it is what it is.

ras said...

Great post Chum. In Jamaica dem seh "sumtimes yuh give bun, sumtimes yuh get bun. So it go inna life"

Festus Porkmeyer said...

Having blown through northern Oregon a wizardload of times, Porky has compiled a list of things that piss him off about Shorties:
— The way it is sheltered from a north or northwest wind, leaving conditions glassy or offshore while most of the coast is whitecappin’.
— The several little peaks to choose from.
— The absence of angry, jumped-up-on-twack-and-Copenhagen defenders of the Point.
— The quiet walk through the forest.
— The friendliness of the surfboarders.
— The creeks.
— The witnessing, in late fall, of a lone woman catching a bomber on the north end, then returning to her fire to warm up before fighting her way back out through the walls of whitewash — still alone.
— The building codes of Cannon Beach and Manzanita.
— The lack of Starbucks.
Happily, the wheelbarrows more than make up for the multiple down sides.

Chum said...

Dub,

That's right, you caught the first wave of that set, then I grabbed the next one. I was pretty damn late too, so I figured nobody else was there.

Thank God the wave gods are on my side. They were friendly all session long.

Porky,

I forgot about the wheelbarrow factor at Shorties. They're kind of like the Bics of wheelbarrows, but even then, those must be a real selling point for you...

lee said...

na! the guy had just got one, does he understand the term LINE UP i sometimes feel like i am taking crazy pills !

G said...

Nice pix, brah. That's all I've got to say.

Jake said...

Looks like fun!

Nash said...

We both know your a monster. I've never met a guy who will go for every wave when the only people in the lineup are friends. Its ok though, it makes brohampton that much more tolerable!

Chum said...

Nash. Dude, just cuz I gots the wave knowledge don't mean you gotta hate. You can have bro-tampon!

Porky said...

What about your new thruster, Bub? That looked like a decent opening day for it, no? You could have wheelbarrowed both boards ...

Chum said...

Actually, my excuse for not riding trusty thrusty is that I didn't wax it before heading to the beach. We got there late and I didn't have time so I left it in the van. Next time (tomorrow) I'll be ready.

herbalwellspring said...

Surely, the guy is totally just.