Saturday, September 01, 2007
All kinds of philosophical thoughts come up during the experience of surfing. One of my favorites occurred on a day in Nicaragua when the sea was finally showing swell again after a week-long flat spell. A guy who I'd gotten to know, who worked at a nearby surf camp, explained the lumpy, disorganized conditions by saying, "It's trying to find itself."
Since then I've always enjoyed thinking of the ocean as a conscious being with its own personality.
Sometimes moody: "It's angry."
Sometimes scattered: "It's confused."
Sometimes sick: "It's hung over."
Sometimes benevolent: "It's generous."
I wonder how it'll be feeling tomorrow, when I head to Crescent City for the day?
Spoon - The Underdog