All kinds of philosophical thoughts come up during the experience of surfing. One of my favorites occurred on a day in Nicaragua when the sea was finally showing swell again after a week-long flat spell. A guy who I'd gotten to know, who worked at a nearby surf camp, explained the lumpy, disorganized conditions by saying, "It's trying to find itself."
Since then I've always enjoyed thinking of the ocean as a conscious being with its own personality.
Sometimes moody: "It's angry."
Sometimes scattered: "It's confused."
Sometimes sick: "It's hung over."
Sometimes benevolent: "It's generous."
I wonder how it'll be feeling tomorrow, when I head to Crescent City for the day?
Spoon - The Underdog
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7 comments:
"It is going to slap me around for not paying it enough attention."
I found myself flirting with her for the last eight days.
Crusty Shitty for the day?
"Crusty Shitty" - that's almost how Crescent City was feeling. Plenty of crusties, but the waves improved throughout our 3 hour session. Itty bitty, but fun.
Crescent City was feeling mangosteiney
Not a reference to waves necessarily, just what we used to call that place. As you can imagine logged a lot of time there back in the Ashland days.
I like this perspective.
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