Thursday, September 27, 2007

RIPPED!

The longshore rip was so strong yesterday,
We had to paddle constantly to stay on the peak.
And the peak was perfect for an hour.
Perfect rights peeling like a point break.
But if you went for one and missed it,
You were gone, swept away in the roguish current.
If you blew a wave, you got sucked to the south so rapidly
That you could actually see your line-up on shore
Fading away into the distance.

It was easier cash in your chips and belly in,
Walk back up the beach and start over.

Back at the peak there was a barnacled buoy
That marked perfectly where the wave started cresting.
I now have scratches all over my finger tips
from trying to hang onto it to stay in one place.

The things we do for a couple good waves...

The Wedding Present - Brassneck

6 comments:

Patch said...

Those are the days when you wish some kelp was nearby to hang on to.

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G said...

Talk about ripped...the Ducks got ripped. They basically ripped themselves a new one.

Chum said...

By a Longshore as well! (Actually, Oregon handed the game to those lucky duckies.)

Graham said...

We're right around the corner from rip time down here. The more i read your blog, the more Kim and I are compelled to plan a trip up that way next year.. Kim has never experienced the Oregon coast and I have never had the pleasure of sliding in its frigid waters...

I also love how even the sissyfish blog gets spammed...

Totor said...

Oh my god, David Gedge is such a great singer!!!!
I love those good old Weddoes...
Their latest album "Take fountain" is a splendor, and the first song "Interstate 5" will always remind me of my family trip to Morocco and the cliff road going down to the small village of Imsouane...