The longshore rip was so strong yesterday,We had to paddle constantly to stay on the peak.
And the peak was perfect for an hour.
Perfect rights peeling like a point break.
But if you went for one and missed it,
You were gone, swept away in the roguish current.
If you blew a wave, you got sucked to the south so rapidly
That you could actually see your line-up on shore
Fading away into the distance.
It was easier cash in your chips and belly in,
Walk back up the beach and start over.
Back at the peak there was a barnacled buoy
That marked perfectly where the wave started cresting.
I now have scratches all over my finger tips
from trying to hang onto it to stay in one place.
The things we do for a couple good waves...
The Wedding Present - Brassneck
Posts
5 comments:
Those are the days when you wish some kelp was nearby to hang on to.
Talk about ripped...the Ducks got ripped. They basically ripped themselves a new one.
By a Longshore as well! (Actually, Oregon handed the game to those lucky duckies.)
We're right around the corner from rip time down here. The more i read your blog, the more Kim and I are compelled to plan a trip up that way next year.. Kim has never experienced the Oregon coast and I have never had the pleasure of sliding in its frigid waters...
I also love how even the sissyfish blog gets spammed...
Oh my god, David Gedge is such a great singer!!!!
I love those good old Weddoes...
Their latest album "Take fountain" is a splendor, and the first song "Interstate 5" will always remind me of my family trip to Morocco and the cliff road going down to the small village of Imsouane...
Post a Comment