Wednesday, May 13, 2009

From the Mouth of the Body



At 9:00 into this video, after ripping Cheney and Bush and explaining how he endured the same tortures as Gitmo prisoners as a Navy SEAL, Jesse "The Body" Ventura waxes poetic about his new surfing life in Mexico...

JESSE VENTURA: "I'm enjoying myself, trying to be the best surfer I can be down in Baja. Always remember this, Larry, surfing is a dedication. It's a life dedication to do it. If someone were as dedicated to religion, would they call him a religious bum?"

(Kerouac called them Dharma Bums, but I get his point...)

LARRY KING: "You're a big man. Does that make surfing difficult?"

JESSE: "It's harder, but I want to get my weight down 30 pounds. But remember, the greatest surfer in the world, Laird Hamilton, is 6'3-and-a-half and weighs 220 pounds.

As OS said, when he forwarded me this link: "No wonder he wants to be the ambassador to Cuba." The global surf tribe has a truly diverse membership...

Things are a bit slow in my surf existence lately, if you couldn't tell. Waves have been tiny every time I've gone out the last couple weeks. That rumbling sound you hear in the distance is the whole Oregon surf population collectively gnashing their teeth in anticipation of Spring swell. Are we paying the price for an unbelievable winter?

5 comments:

Lamont said...

Classic Jesse Ventura!

Shakas!!

Wave Farmer said...

There's nothing wrong with tiny waves...
You just need a bigger board.

granddarcy said...

Hello!
nice to find you on here, as your blog was recommended to me by Miss Eugenie F... I've known her for ages but have recently moved back to Portland and ran into her on the street today.
Anyway, my husband and I have been living in Portugal over the last several years l and are missing the surf and the friends...
Do you have any suggestions for a ride share possibility? This could be a nice way to meet people and get out to the beach in a eco and economical way. write me back at granddarcy@yahoo.com if you have the time!
cheers,
darcy

Chum said...

Hey Doc,

Does that mean you're going to lend me the Eagle this weekend? It'll mow 'em down at shorties like blades of fresh spring grass under a John Deere tractor.

Despite that last comment, I'm I pretty nice person and I'll be out there this weekend with the family. I'll be the guy sitting out by the tip of Cape Neahkahnie on a big Skip Frye catching the outside bumps!

Unknown said...

Interesting comments on waterboarding. I know Laird experienced it, albeit in a different way lmao.