Sunday, April 13, 2008


My mind was clear
My body tired
My skin salty and dry
The waves were there
They cleaned my hair
The sun shined in the sky

From low tide pull
To high tide push
Four hours I did play
If you can’t surf every day of the week
Surf a week’s worth in one day.


Amazing how a good surf can get everything back in tune again. At least for a week or so...


Nash said...

And it just kept getting better. I had 2 lefts that equaled my earlier right.

Foulweather... said...

Sat morning was pretty damn good.

Deep Deep said...

Poetry on motion, hehehe...

G said...

Hoping for another golden opportunity.

Diarmo said...

Hey, I'm used to surfing the fridged waters of Ireland; full gimp suit all year round. We only get the odd sunny session and your simple poem captures our weekend-warrior attitude. Surf till you drop.