Saturday, July 15, 2006

Trunkin' It


There's nothing like trunking it for the first time after a season surfing in thick neoprene. The sensation starts as you walk down the beach, as I did tonight in Baja Sur, toward your first session at a tropical break. The grains of sand bounce off your calves, catpulted by your flip flops. There's the breeze against your exposed skin as you sit at the water's edge scoping the swells and deciding where to paddle out. You attach the leash around your bare ankle, stretch a little (but not too much since it gets dark sooner so far south), and take your first steps into th aqua sea. The water is warmer than you remember. You propel yourself forward in land on your stomach and as you start to paddle, you notice immediately how light you are. There's no rubber to weigh you down, or to make you float too much when you duckdive. You can see your arm muscles working as you scratch for the outside. And when you catch your first wave, the one that will set the tone for the rest of your vacation, you can actually feel the beads of newly applied tropical wax under the soles of your feet. Sex without latex comes to mind...

Fischerspooner - Emerge (DFA Remix)

6 comments:

Candi Gershon said...

Your analogies are always amusing.
:)

shitbird said...

Oh man.....wish I were there...please keep the blog rollin so those of us up north can live vicariously.....

foul pete said...

i was just about to ask, why are you blogging in Mexico, when there is warm water glass to be shredded?

i had a good day down the camp with a couple of your mates (Slim and Noah) last weekend. still needed a 4/3mm though...

Chum said...

I'll keep the posts coming. Hard to do when my waking hours are spent surfing and drinking pacifico. Shitbird (aka Grandpa) would love Acapulcuito (Aka Old Man's). Mellow wave that is impossible not to catch or ride for a long way, as long as you don't mind the slalom course of rocks and rookies inside. I took out a 9 foot log yesterday and got revenge for not being able to pick much up on my fish the first day. We hit Nine Palms two days ago - the only two other surfers there were seaside locals. I'll post about it soon...

dave rich said...

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA MEXICO!!!! ohh and pleaaaaaaase dont let me forget pacifico. god i love that beer! i definently drank a shitload of it while i was in mexico. keep up the posts but I for one know how hard it can be, so I wont hold you to it. have a blast and rip it for all of us

Diane said...

OK, whatever!