Friday, October 13, 2006

PC Was All Right

This was yesterday. I feel somewhat guilty for posting this picture, even though PC is a well-known break in Oregon. Somehow, it seems like I'm showing the world a naked picture of my girlfriend. But I guess this blog is about kissing and telling, so here goes:

I can honestly say that I got the best right of my life yesterday. It was a set wave, well overhead, that I got into early (on my 5'8" quad) and just carved. It was one of those waves where you look down the line and realize that the possibilities are as broad as your skill level. I've just never been able to do that backside on such a big wave. It just went on forever. I aimed my arms upward and the board followed up to the top of the wave, then I turned my shoulders back downward and the board dropped back in. I crouched low when I needed speed, and I flew past a feathering section. I took it all the way inside and instead of kicking out, turned away from the barrelling shore-pound in the nick of time.

Yesterday was all right. I didn't even go left once.

The Who - The Kids Are Alright

11 comments:

Anonymous said...

Dude, you have a girlfriend?

Chum said...

I still consider my wife my girlfriend.

G said...

I got caught up in the typical lumberman mentality of trying to cut down all the logs. I should've just headed down south to the clear cut with the Sis.

Slim said...

Come on, tell it like it is.....PC is a glorified close-out these days.

Anonymous said...

Chum, nau is the time to check out this website...get it, nau.
http://www.phoresia.org/

Chum said...

Slim, I guess you had to be there to witness this rarified day.

Anonymous said...

Ah Oregon glass. How I miss it so. But Canada surf ain' too bad either.

J.P. said...

I believe we were promised naked photos of your girlfriend.

festus porkmeyer said...

Chum don't mind other guys dancing with his girl
That's fine, he knows them all pretty well ...

Diane said...

Wow, Honey! Congratulations on yesterday.

Anonymous said...

nice set wave. tripped across your site and happy to see your thriving/ sprouted community of surfers.

aloha from hawaii
single fin~