The fourth time ended up being a charm with this secret spot. When the wind, tide, swell size, interval, and stars are all in alignment, you're required to drop everything and make the trek. Fantasy football be damned. Family obligations be postponed. And often when you think it should be on, this temperamental break can send you back home with dry hair. But not this time. Six surf buddies alone in the heaving turquoise swell, reminded of what real waves feel like.
Kevin Baker - Riding the Wind
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12 comments:
Nice photo but I'm guessing that was one of the unmakeable close out death pits?
Wave of the day to Nash for sure. Jammy bastard. Slim went over the falls very casually. Some dude, named Gabe dropped in on me and you got a sick one on yr backhand... I got severe cramp in my leg and got punched off a wave by a violent turqoise lip.
Yes. Exactly. I know you've scored that place even better, FP. But what you had alway said about it being your favorite was illustrated well enough in the first hour of our session!
PS - I just added another shot of the peak where I grabbed my final left. You have to blow it up to get the scale, and this is after the waves died down a little with the falling tide! Death pit, for sure...
Ahh the magical feeling of yesterday has left me with a surf hangover. I've dropped into giant green waves about a thousand times in my mind today. Speaking of which, did I drop in on you Pete? My apologies. It was only because I was so intent on not getting pummeled by the whitewater monster hot on my tail. Next time just tell me to f-off. Had a blast surfing with all you boys. Till next time.
That's cool Gabe, the wave shut down anyway. I thought I'd take off deep because you never know...
Ahh, that was a day of infamy. Gabe, tried to take out both of the Pikeys? I think that it all has to be forgiven because of ther beauty. That was a sick one, and it wasn't just my two good waves. I love that place, no crowds, trading waves and nothing but clear water. Looking forward to the next one homies.
no crowds, yet you guys still find ways to drop in on each other... hmmm
Gee is forgiven because of the Pikey's beauty?
the beauty not ther, it was a typo. However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and from what I hear they have been beholding each others brown eye. So maybe between the two there exists gay beauty.
Is "Riding the wind" the song of the last sequence of "Litmus"?
If so, good choice... :)
That, sir, is indeed the song. It took me a while to find it (online), but was well worth the search. Music nerd + surf nerd = very little time for anything "productive."
I love the "Mullet song" in Andrew Kidman's "Glass love" DVD bonus...
"I was born with my mullet
I will die with my mullet"
Some kind of heavenly looking beach, I would say.
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