Sunday, March 11, 2007

Storm Troopers


Yesterday. March 10. We weren't holding our breath about getting surf when we strapped our boards to the roof at 7am. And the view from the parking lot didn't exactly have us falling over eachother to get in the water. Rain, high winds and big, cold, lumpy swells awaited outside our warm car. Eventually we did jump off the rocks and into the rip. At first, we tried our luck on the big rights that were thumping in. I caught one, but it closed out. After spending some time battling various deep water currents and managing to get caught "inside" a couple times - where Nash claimed to experence his longest holddown - our better judgement took over and we joined a few other guys on a grinder that peeled off the rocks. Shoulder high, the wave had serious oomph. If you didn't keep up with the steep face after the drop, you'd most likely have a run-in with barnacle encrusted boulders. More than once.

It took me a while to figure it out, but eventually I caught a larger set wave and was treated to the kind of experience only a point break can offer: fast, clean, walled-up, machine-like ... did I mention fast? The speed was deceptive because the wave almost seemed grind in place, reeling up and over itself rather than down the line. I only became aware of my velocity when I flew off the back as it shut down inside. I soared up to the end of my leash, diving head first into the rip.

When we got back to our car, we noticed that the right on the outside bar had cleaned up substantially. There were a few troopers who were tearing it up, probably stoked to be going frontside for a change.





Tobin Sprout - Gas Daddy Gas

8 comments:

Nash said...

the oregon stoke is high right now young sky-walker. I was very pleased to see you start getting it. I hope the prodding and light shit talking by yorus truly was as fun for you as it was for me. After chasing your waves for a few seasons now it was nice to get it first and talk some BS. Things are shaping up for next week so we need to keep the dream alive. Two weeks where it should have been skunkage turned into frothy gold!

G said...

You:
Cold
Huge
Raining
Windy
Rideable

Me:
Hot
Tiny
Sunny
Calm
Barely Makeable

Can't we meet somewhere in the middle? Well maybe not in the middle, but we could meet in Mexico. Hope you guys make it.

Mick said...

Looked like an epic session Chum. MUCH better than the drivel I got on Saturday.
Glad you enjoyed the stories and scribbles too. Thanks.

Slim said...

Cracka-lacka-lackin'!!

Dub Resurrected said...

Dam you guys scored again! I should probably start heading back over to the coast one of these days. Been side tracked by spring corn snow and bright sunshine over in central Oregon's high desert. But it looks like I'm heading over tomorow for a few days.

ras said...

sick scoresurly1

surferbrat said...

Damn, that surf looks serious. and fun...though I rather enjoyed the lazy two foot dribbles I surfed this weekend. Although I guess one can't say it was lazy when it took a ton of work to catch anything. That surf is definately not lazy. nice pics.

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