Saturday, May 03, 2008

My Wife Caught Me...



...Doing absolutely nothing on this big, perfect left! She showed up with "El Nino" strapped to her chest, Baby-Bjorn-and-John style, snapped five shots (which were only from the second half of the wave, when she realized it was me), concluded that the blazing sun would turn our son into a fried camaron, and left five minutes later.

In my own defense (if anybody is wondering why I'm not throwing buckets or even thimbles off the back of this screamer): I had forgotten how fast my quad goes when slotted on a glassy wall. I'm not going to lie to you, I was hanging on for dear life and my knees were rattling like an epileptic Elvis Presley. Oh, that and the fact that I really don't know how to hit the lip without ending up somewhere behind the wave or headfirst in the trough... It was fun though. About 100 yards of racetrack that had my heart pumping out of my chest from the late drop to the nerve-racked kickout near the sand.

I can tell you this: I wish I had brought my new 6'7 down for waves like these. Not only is it tons more stable, but it seems to move in a slightly more methodical way on steep faces. I've only tested it one time, though.

Oh, and for my chums up in Oregon that think I never go backside, I caught a couple rights as well that were actually a little smaller and for some reason easier to turn on. Wish you were here.

As a side note, this local sponger I've been surfing with the past couple days said today was the best he's ever seen this spot. I guess I kind of am a bit of a swell magnet...

12 comments:

NiegĂ  said...

Just say you are a purist and were enjoying the glide!!! It normally works...

NiegĂ 

Doc said...

I wouldn't even claim being a purist...just be a purist...you don't need to do snaps, throw buckets, launch airs or get barrels to qualify as a surfer...sometimes just take what the wave gives you without giving the wave what you think it needs.

OS said...

Bueno Chum! Agua es mas azul than last time. Wish we were there too.

Rockaway Condos said...

Don't just do something, stand there! That's a beautiful and you're on it, that's all that matters.

slim said...

Nice wave, R.

Anonymous said...

I love the line you're taking in the first pic. Nice work.

G said...

Got in the act. Looks like you could've even been e-shack-ulated on that one.

Wish we were down there to enjoy the magic.

Saw May's pix of Nico...livin' the good life.

mh said...

time I entered the fray... I'm kicking myself I didn't take the quick trip down with you guys! Looks amazing. Go get some point break action too!

Nash said...

Dude, you get to take too many good trips. Muy jealous.

-n

Diane said...

Way too nice. I am so happy for you.

Chum said...

Thanks brojos. So far it turns out that that was the wave of the trip, and it happened on day 2. On the bright side, my wife also happened to be there to catch it. Swell has dropped, but there have still been some really fun days. Not as many waves this trip as previous ones, but the ones I've gotten have been primo. And that's fine.

No solo drives up the dirt road to the East Cape for point breaks this trip. It would be pretty lame to leave my morning waves and the family for a gamble by myself (and risk getting stuck in the sand somewhere). Rumor has it that it hasn't been all that good up there anyway... Times have changed!

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