My Wife Caught Me...

...Doing absolutely nothing on this big, perfect left! She showed up with "El Nino" strapped to her chest, Baby-Bjorn-and-John style, snapped five shots (which were only from the second half of the wave, when she realized it was me), concluded that the blazing sun would turn our son into a fried camaron, and left five minutes later.

In my own defense (if anybody is wondering why I'm not throwing buckets or even thimbles off the back of this screamer): I had forgotten how fast my quad goes when slotted on a glassy wall. I'm not going to lie to you, I was hanging on for dear life and my knees were rattling like an epileptic Elvis Presley. Oh, that and the fact that I really don't know how to hit the lip without ending up somewhere behind the wave or headfirst in the trough... It was fun though. About 100 yards of racetrack that had my heart pumping out of my chest from the late drop to the nerve-racked kickout near the sand.

I can tell you this: I wish I had brought my new 6'7 down for waves like these. Not only is it tons more stable, but it seems to move in a slightly more methodical way on steep faces. I've only tested it one time, though.

Oh, and for my chums up in Oregon that think I never go backside, I caught a couple rights as well that were actually a little smaller and for some reason easier to turn on. Wish you were here.

As a side note, this local sponger I've been surfing with the past couple days said today was the best he's ever seen this spot. I guess I kind of am a bit of a swell magnet...