Poo-Poos.

That's not really the name of this break, but it might as well be. With a NW wind blowing and a million seagulls shitting on the monolith in the ocean just to the Northwest of the lineup, it's pretty hard to paddle out here without feeling like you're splashing through a shit mire.



Today was really small, but luckily I brought my trusty 7'0, so catching the little peelers that came through consistently for the first hour of our session was a breeze (albeit a foul one).



Lots of small rights today. It was good practice for Mexico, I suppose. But I was having a hard time getting used to the thickness and general immobility of the longer stick again. I haven't ridden it in 6 months or so. I would pop up and as I leaned into a turn, my whole body wanted to spin right off the board. I caught a few that connected into the inside - on one in particular, the wave pitched up and the sun illuminated it from behind. For a split-second I felt like I was crouching next to a dirty aquarium, until the wave quickly closed down on me. I actually grabbed my board with my feet so it wouldn't flatten Gee, who was paddling back out. "I thought your were going to pull into the tube!" he yelled. Damn, if I only knew how.


I included this gratuitous shot of Gee for the ladies out there who think surfers are "hot" and for Shitbird, who also seems to be attracted to outdoorsy types.

Music: Pixies - "Wave of Mutilation"