Sunday, July 24, 2005


That's not really the name of this break, but it might as well be. With a NW wind blowing and a million seagulls shitting on the monolith in the ocean just to the Northwest of the lineup, it's pretty hard to paddle out here without feeling like you're splashing through a shit mire.

Today was really small, but luckily I brought my trusty 7'0, so catching the little peelers that came through consistently for the first hour of our session was a breeze (albeit a foul one).

Lots of small rights today. It was good practice for Mexico, I suppose. But I was having a hard time getting used to the thickness and general immobility of the longer stick again. I haven't ridden it in 6 months or so. I would pop up and as I leaned into a turn, my whole body wanted to spin right off the board. I caught a few that connected into the inside - on one in particular, the wave pitched up and the sun illuminated it from behind. For a split-second I felt like I was crouching next to a dirty aquarium, until the wave quickly closed down on me. I actually grabbed my board with my feet so it wouldn't flatten Gee, who was paddling back out. "I thought your were going to pull into the tube!" he yelled. Damn, if I only knew how.

I included this gratuitous shot of Gee for the ladies out there who think surfers are "hot" and for Shitbird, who also seems to be attracted to outdoorsy types.

Music: Pixies - "Wave of Mutilation"


Candi said...

Thanks for the gratuitous "hot surfer" photo. Made me smile. Love reading these surf diaries. Wish I took that class in high school now (yes it was offered as a P.E. credit). It was as if I knew I'd be moving to B.F.I.

G-Spot said...

Tell us more about the "hot surfer." He looks like he must rip. I think I saw him at Poo-Poo's tearing into the maw of a 2' monster. I hope he's not just another poseur, who buys a Lost Tri-Fish and posts up in the middle of the line-up getting in everyone's way.

shitbird said...

So I heard that there is some sort of weird thing happening with the ocean current this year. Something about how the water is too cold for a certain type of plankton to grow and in turn is causing a shortage of food for a fish that normally eat said plankton, which is in turn starving a certain type of death...and not the rare shitbird either. I realize this is all very loose information and I don't even remember where I heard it, but maybe you guys were smelling dead birds....not bird shite.....