Zen Surf

The fog was thick and bright
The air was warm and still
Large birds flew like shadows
In and out of the mist.

The water was clear and smooth
The cove was silent and close
A figure (like a ghost) appeared beyond a swell
Then dissolved behind a cloud.

You could smell your own breath
You could push water and watch
As your tiny east swell travelled outward toward the void.

You could see crabs crawling on the ocean floor
You could chase fish swimming in a line
As you rode the small waves above.

The swell came to you
(You couldn't chase them)
The ocean carried you
(You couldn't navigate to change its mind).

It was peaceful.
It was scary.
It was holy.





Jose Gonzales - Heartbeats