Monday, March 16, 2009

Hump Day




Wednesday seems like a long time ago now. Rye and I spent most of the day driving up the north coast in my jalopy until we decided on this beach break, which was pretty near its max-out point. That paddle-out was a grandmother, but when you finally made it outside, some nice humps were rolling through. Sets were averaging head high, but it's always hard to see the size without something for perspective: blow up the first pic and you can get an idea from the seagull. In the third picture above, there's a guy paddling out on the right side of the frame.

I got a few really nice ones then convinced Rye to paddle back out with me after taking a wave all the way in. He'd been struggling to punch through the middle and was catching his breath on a log. He didn't realize that the rip was working a little bit and you had to paddle almost all the way to the farthest boulder outside to be safe. Once we made it out the second time, he immediately spun for a set wave and caught it. He disappeared behind the shoulder only to emerge about a hundred yards up the beach. Not skunked after all!

Surfing good waves with just a friend and a sea lion is one of life's rare treats.

Now it's pissing rain and blowing hard. Doesn't look like surf will even be an option until the weekend (at least). Oregon. Winter. Welcome back.

10 comments:

Nash said...

tried to get teh same place on Friday...sucked eggs and so did just about everything else we looked at. What a bummer...

rye said...

thank you for dragging me off the log. let do it again soon my friend.

Anonymous said...
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Anonymous said...

"This post has been removed by a blog administrator."

Shit I missed it. Must of been a good one.

Chum said...

Must have.

Anonymous said...

Needles RuLZ!S!!!

Wet and Cold said...

thats first peak is excellent!

surferbrat said...

Nice pics chum. I still gotta make it up to Oregon one of these days. Winter might be back for you there, but SF is welcoming the pleasures or spring and beautiful weather, with onshore winds mucking everything up.

Anonymous said...

i know that front yard intimately...grew up playing in the one next to it. i was buddies with mani down in oakland, got a couple of his boards.... living in seattle now. hopefully we'll meet out in the water.
JJ

Chum said...

Sounds good! Let me know when you're in these parts.