Sunday, March 01, 2009

Went Surfin'


Finally went surfing again yesterday after a couple weeks in drydock. Thankfully, the conditions were cooperative. It was offshore and overhead on the sets with pretty long lulls, but if you were patient, the cold wait paid off. I parked myself on a left (of course) and got a couple that walled up and gave me some really memorable rides. I had enough time to draw out the bottom turn longer on each wave, dragging my hand along the surface, then coming off the top where the lip was feathering and cut back to the bottom, closer and closer to the foamball. Repeat. Repeat.

It was a blast.

The water was colder than I've felt it in a while and the wind was icy. But as I metioned before, this has been the best winter for surf I've ever experienced.

*The "sign" above is a sketch for something I'm working on for the Mattson Family benefit show. See the link in the previous sentence for details. If you're an artist, I encourage you to donate some work to the show. My freelancing wife and I have dealt with incredible medical bills as a result of cancer treatment and I cannot imagine how hard it must be to have two people battling the disease and the costs of care at the same time. C'mon Obama, let's fix the health care system in this country so self-employed people unfortunate enough to get sick aren't faced with the double-whammy of financial destitution as the result of their bad luck.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Fuk OBAMA! Get your own insurance,
and don't ask me to pay for it!

Chum said...

Glad to see that my blog reaches all walks of life. Did you know you can't get insurance if you have a pre-existing condition like cancer?

Anonymous said...

"couple weeks in drydock"

and.....

"best winter for surf I've ever experienced"

really? sounds abit rough to me.....

OS said...

Anon...are you serious? You're really throwing hate on this? Cowardly behind the anonymous handle as well? Why even bother? Don't you have something more important to do, like burn down a children's hospital or something? Try cancer, no seriously, go get it, it will do you some good, perhaps give you a dose of humanity, and if for some reason you don't pull through it, well clearly the world and line up would be a bit more pleasant place without you.

Chum...Great work of art for a great cause.

Jamie Watson said...

Thank you for helping such a great cause. You are the best. I love the piece you are working on.

Gaz said...

Hopefully he has gotten the process underway with the kid's health plan passed a few weeks ago. It's a system bound to crash in it's current form. Hope all is well with you guys.